The Historic Cuban Sandwich

There are many pleasant things about living around the Tampa Bay area of Florida.  The sunny warm weather, award winning beaches, an abundance of fresh and saltwater fishing, professional sports teams, and, great places to eat all make the Tampa area a special place.

Tampa has another distinction too, and, a very delicious one.  It is the disputed home of the Cuban sandwich (the "Cubano"). I use the word, “disputed,” because at one time or another Havana, Key West, and even Miami have all claimed to be the birthplace of the sandwich.  And, while it is probably true that some form of a “mixto” originated in Cuba, the sandwich, in its present composition, most certainly came about in Tampa’s Ybor City during the late 1800’s.

During the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, Ybor City was the “Cigar Capital of the World.”  Cuban workers in the cigar factories in both Ybor City and West Tampa produced high quality hand-rolled cigars, reputedly, the finest in the world.  The workers needed something portable to take to work for lunch, and, that “something” was the Cuban sandwich.

For what it’s worth, a National Public Radio poll more or less determined that Tampa is, in fact, where most people believe the present day sandwich came together.  And, the Tampa City Council has officially declared the tasty sandwich the “Historic Tampa Cuban Sandwich.”   

So, what is it about the Cuban sandwich which pits communities against each other for bragging rights?  That question brings about even more controversy, because there is even disagreement among many as to what ingredients constitute a “real” Cuban.  Most would agree that a true Cuban consists of pork, sweet ham, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles, and, in the case of Tampa Cuban sandwiches, Genoa salami.  This last ingredient came about in deference to the sizable Italian community living in and around Ybor City during those early days when the cigar was king.  The sandwich is only made with Cuban bread.

Good bread can make or break any sandwich, and, in my opinion, Cuban bread makes this sandwich as well.  Cuban bread is made with lard, and, the baked loaf is usually 36 inches long.  The most well-known and respected Tampa baker of Cuban bread is La Segunda Central Bakery, which has been in operation since the early days of the 20^th century. La Segunda bakers shape the dough into loaves, and, as has been done from the bakery’s beginning, place a palmetto leaf on top of each loaf prior to baking.  This not only gives the bread a signature palm leaf split, but, more importantly, holds in the moisture while the bread is baking.  This is important, as it helps give the bread its flaky exterior and its moist chewy interior.  Those who consider themselves true artisans of the sandwich would never consider using bread that had not been baked the same day.  Additionally, Cubans can be served either room temperature, or, hot-pressed in a press called a plancha.

I’ve had the pleasure of eating Cuban sandwiches in many places, including, non-traditional places like Texas.  I had my first Cuban sandwich a very long time ago in Tampa’s own, Hugo’s Spanish Restaurant, one very special place that knows a thing or two about perfecting the art of a Cubano.  And, ever since, I have considered the sandwich to be one of my favorite foods.  There is no reason to attempt to judge the best Tampa Cuban sandwich or the best Tampa restaurants making the sandwich, as, most all are very good.  I’ve enjoyed them in high-end eating establishments, trailers, and in gas station/convenience stores.  And, while some may have seemed better than others; it’s probably just a personal preference on my part.  There have been a few times when I’ve had less than a respectable Cuban sandwich, but never in the Tampa area.  In those cases, it was because someone went a little heavy when pressing the sandwich.  In my opinion, they literally “squeezed the life” out of it.  A pressed sandwich should be gently pressed, not crushed.

The Cuban sandwich is so popular around Tampa that you could keep quite busy trying to visit all the places that sell them.  The other day I was hungry for a Cuban, so I decided to revisit a place which is a past winner of “The All Tampa Cuban Sandwich Contest.”  The Cuban Sandwich Shop, located on N. Florida Avenue, in the block between W. Seneca and W. Bougainvillea, is a family run business that started selling Cubans in 1975.  It’s not fancy, often crowded, but the food is very good.  And it’s not just the Cuban sandwiches which are good either.  Many regulars who visit the shop order the Spanish Bean soup, which in addition to the garbanzo beans, contains ham, chorizo sausage, and potatoes in a delightful saffron flavored soup base. 

The sandwich which gives the shop its namesake has sweet ham, Cuban style pork, Genoa salami, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard, and mayonnaise all stuffed inside delicious Cuban bread.  It can either be pressed or not, and, for those who want it, the sandwich can be served with lettuce and tomato.  For an additional charge, you can order a “Special Cuban,” which contains an extra portion of sweet ham.

As it was the noon hour when I arrived, the shop was packed with people.  There is no priority seating, so, you must take matters into your own hands to be seated.  Luckily I spotted a table along the back wall which had just been vacated, and, I quickly made my move.  Negotiating between tables of senior citizens eating two dollar cups of Spanish Bean soup, Tampa paramedics gorging themselves on Cubans, and, middle aged women enjoying Ropa Vieja, I took my seat and ordered a “Special Cuban” with tall glass of unsweetened ice tea.  It was a great sandwich, a good lunch, and, you can be sure I will do it again.

In the end, I suppose, it really does not matter where the sandwich came from originally.  The important thing is that it came from somewhere.  I love Cuban sandwiches, and, I can honestly say that of all the things in life which make life pleasant, a Cuban sandwich is certainly one of them. Ana Maria Polo, the television show host of Telemundo’s “Caso Cerrado,” also thinks very highly of the sandwich it seems.  She reportedly said, “Let me tell you something: Sometimes a Cuban sandwich and an ice-cold beer can be better than sex.”  Now, I like the sandwich, I like it a lot, but, I’m not prepared to go that far.

SOS In The Land Of Breakfast

There have got to be more places in Florida to buy a good breakfast than in any other state.  Of course, I have no statistical information to back up that claim, so I guess you’ll just have to take my word for it.  My explanation for why there are so many places to eat breakfast in Florida is quite simple.  The only people who have time to go out in the morning and sit down and have a leisurely breakfast are retired senior citizens and tourists, and Florida has plenty of both.  The rest of us are working, or heading to work, and we just don’t want to get up early enough to make stopping at the local breakfast spot a reality.  The places I’m referring to don’t just serve breakfast in the morning, they serve it all day long.  And while they may also serve lunch and dinner, breakfast is their specialty, and the reason most people visit.  After all, you never know what hour of the day someone will develop an intense hunger for SOS.

SOS stands for “Stuff On a Shingle.”  Well, it doesn’t really.  I’ve politely substituted the original “S” word with the word “stuff.”  My mother reads my writing from time to time, and I’m sure she would not appreciate my use of the original “S” word.  So, in order to placate her, I’ll just use the word “stuff.”  Of course, I know what the real word is, and so does she, but some things are better left unsaid, or, in this case, unwritten.
 
My first introduction to SOS was during army basic training.  On one of those very early mornings in the company mess hall, partway up Fort Jackson’s Tank Hill, I remember going through the chow line and being served up, what appeared to me at the time, to be unrecognizable lumpy gravy slopped over toast.  The unfortunate soldier on KP duty, who was serving me the SOS, looked no happier than I looked being served it.  But looks can be deceiving, because after one bite, I fell in love, and have been in love with SOS ever since.

SOS is just another name for chipped beef on toast.  Like most prepared dishes, specific recipes differ depending on who is doing the cooking.  However, since so many people were first introduced to this culinary delight during the course of their military service, I think it is only appropriate that we look to the U.S. Army for guidance.  In the 1910 version of the Manual for Army Cooks, the ingredients for making creamy chipped beef were listed as being chipped beef, fat (butter preferred), flour, evaporated milk, parsley, pepper, and beef stock.  Those ingredients represented the “stuff” of SOS, and the toast represented the “shingle.”  Most modern chipped beef recipes eliminate both the beef broth and parsley, and substitute real milk for evaporated milk, but aside from those differences, the recipe has not really changed that much.
 
As noted earlier, I don’t make time for breakfast during the week, but I do get out occasionally on the weekends.  Breakfast places on Florida’s Gulf Coast, like around the rest of Florida, are plentiful, and they offer inexpensive menu items.  My problem with going out to eat breakfast is that eggs and breakfast seem to be synonymous in this country.  I don’t eat eggs, have never eaten eggs, and, in fact can’t stand the sight of them, especially if they're hard boiled or deviled.  Eggs, in my opinion, are simply not a desirable source of food.  Unfortunately, in most places, it’s hard to find a breakfast selection that doesn’t include a couple of eggs.  That's why I like the simplicity of SOS.  It’s just chipped beef on toast, and eggs have absolutely nothing to do with it in any way, shape, or form.

Luckily for me, there are a great number of breakfast places around which have SOS on the menu.  Making good SOS, like making a good grilled cheese sandwich, is difficult to screw up.  As a result, I am rarely disappointed.  The only place where I’ve had really bad SOS, was at an eatery in New Port Richey, Florida.  It was sweet, sickeningly sweet, and wasn’t worth finishing.  I’m quite sure that the cook had mistakenly added sugar instead of salt, because there is no other explanation.  No one, let alone a professional cook, would have intentionally desecrated SOS by adding sugar.  In any event, I’ve never been back there, and never will go back.

I’m always looking for new places serving SOS, and I get many referrals from people I know.  One such referral was to a place called The Broken Yolk Restaurant, in Holiday, Florida, which, I was told, had delicious SOS.  Now, given my aversion to eggs, I was immediately suspicious just based on the name alone.  I imagined a place filled with egg aficionados, trying to lure me inside with the promise of good chipped beef on toast so that they could convert me to their breakfast obsession of egg whites and yolks.  Despite my personal reservations about visiting the place, I reluctantly made my way to The Broken Yolk Restaurant, and I’m so glad I did.
 
The Broken Yolk, like so many of the breakfast restaurants in Florida, seems to be a social gathering spot for seniors.  It’s a place where the opportunity to meet and converse with friends is just as important as getting something to eat.  The restaurant is small, with no more than 15 tables, and it provides a cozy setting for a cup of morning coffee, a good breakfast, and friendly conversation.  Daily specials are written on whiteboards hanging on the walls, and a television mounted in a corner of the restaurant keeps everyone up to date with the latest news and weather.  On the day of my visit, however, I was not interested in conversation or watching the news.  I had come for one reason, and one reason only, SOS.

After quickly looking through the extensive menu, I selected the chipped beef on toast, and added a bowl of buttered grits and a cup of coffee to my order.  The service was both fast and friendly, and within just a couple of minutes, I was served my food.   My two pieces of toast were completely covered with piping hot, creamy gravy loaded with beef.  And, as a throwback to the old 1910 army recipe, it even had dried parsley sprinkled on top.  I knew, even before I tasted it, that I had hit the SOS jackpot, and it was sitting on a plate right in front of me.  It tasted even better than it looked, and my breakfast was enhanced by the bowl of grits, which were hot and buttery.

As reluctant as I was to come to The Broken Yolk in the first place, I was even more reluctant to leave.  I told the cashier on my way out that the chipped beef on toast was the “best I’ve ever eaten.”  And it truly was.  In a state where there are a thousand places to eat a good breakfast, I’ll definitely go back to enjoy the SOS at The Broken Yolk, because it’s just that good.